Italian time travel for beginners

Olivia Mackinder, Teletext Travel Reviews (www.teletext.co.uk), 24th August 2005

The Medieval hilltop village of Casperia offers an intimate insight into Italian history, overlooking a landscape marked out with olive groves, sweeping valleys and dark green woodland - all just 45-minutes (and less than £2.50) by train from Rome. It is one of a number of fortified Italian villages in the Rieti province of Lazio built to keep out invaders after the fall of the Roman Empire. It was originally called Aspra, meaning bitter, because of the taste it left in the mouths of its enemies after they'd failed to penetrate its thick stone walls.

Completely pedestrianised, Casperia is now home to just 350 people and many of the buildings are empty, but this adds to the atmosphere. Overlooking stunning scenery, it is beautiful, dramatic and moreover, it's a place with a past. This gives it far more substance than a shiny, modern resort. Visit the Forani Palace, the mysterious, brooding home of the counts of Casperia, at the heart of the village or the Church of St John the Baptist. Hidden away at the back is a scale model of the village. Meticulously recreating every nook and cranny, it took a local man 10 years to complete.

Casperia and the surrounding area is known for its cow, sheep and goats cheeses, as well as delicious organic ice-creams. There's plenty of fresh pasta and the locally-produced Sabina olive oil is an award winner. Olive oil and wine-tasting are both available within the village. Take advantage of the free guided walks through the countryside. The surrounding forests are home to a wealth of wildlife, including porcupines, snakes, wild boar and visiting wolves from the Abruzzo mountains.

High up in the hills, you can also visit the hermitages where those searching for divine illumination spent their days in the darkest, coolest recesses of the caves. St Francis of Assisi lived and taught in the nearby mountains and the town of Assisi is two hours away. Here, you'll find the spectacular Basilica of San Francesco, one of Italy's most important religious monuments, which also houses the most impressive collections of 13th and 14th-century art outside a gallery. For more details, see assisionline.com

Although hooking up with excursions to local sites of interest is easy with either with Sunflower Retreats - and gives you the chance to meet people - you will have more flexibility if you hire a car in Rome on your arrival.
Orvieto, an hour away from Casperia draws holidaymakers with a love of art, culture and history. The Corpus Domini Festival is held there every June and involves a costumed parade through the streets.
The thermal baths at Terme dei Papi in Viterbo are worth a day's visit. Spa treatments are available at the four-star Hotel Niccolo V nearby and you can grab a sun lounger under the pine trees to top up your tan.
Just up the road, you'll find bathing pools of sulphur-rich, silky-smooth organic mud. Although the scenery isn't particularly attractive, your skin will feel much softer after a liberal coating.

A holiday in Casperia is all about immersion: immerse yourself in the people, the atmosphere and the past. For culture vultures and those seeking the buzz of the city, Rome is close at hand. But by getting to know the village and its surroundings, by taking the pace of life down a notch, taking a trip back in time has its own rewards.

If you're not hiring a car, the cheapest and easiest way to reach Casperia is by train from Rome Fiumicino Airport to Poggio Mirteto where a free bus operates to the village. From Rome Ciampino, you'll need to get a transfer to Tiburtina station before taking the Orte train to Poggio Mirteto.

Sunflower Retreats (tel: (0039) 0116 2599422) offer daily yoga classes, holistic therapies and free bike hire. The founders are advocates of eco-tourism, supporting the community economically and putting profits back into local festivals and functions. They work hard to raise the area's profile and preserve its environmental and cultural heritage.

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